The Advantages of Spread-Limit Hold'em over Structured-Limit Hold'em:
A Guide to Starting Hands

Apr 06, 2016 Limit was THE way to play Hold’em until the poker boom took off in the early to mid 2000s. Even until 2005, Limit Hold’em (abbreviated as LHE) was the cash game of choice because bad players don’t lose quickly and the game is lightning fast with big pots brewing. Spread Limit A betting structure in which a player may bet any amount in a range on every betting round. A typical spread limit structure is $2-$6, where a player may bet as little as $2 or as much.

BY: Ed Hill

Most card rooms offer both spread- limit and structured-limit hold'em games to their lower limit players. And most players play these two games in exactly the same way. After all, hold'em is hold'em, right! Wrong. Choosing your best game strategy depends on the structure of the game you're playing in.
In a structured-limit hold'em game, the amount a player can bet on any round is completely determined by the betting structure of the game. Consider a $4 -- $8 limit hold'em game where the blinds are $2 and $4. On the first two rounds of betting, a player can bet or raise $4 and only $4 and nothing in between. On the second two betting rounds, a player can bet and raise $8 and only $8 and nothing in between. A11 bets and raises must be in increments of $4 and $8. But in a $2 -- $4 -- $8 -- $8 spread-limit hold'em game, where the blinds are $1 and $2, the bets aren't so rigidly predetermined. Instead, a player has the option of betting anywhere from $2 to $4 before and after the flop and betting anywhere from $2 to $8 on the turn and the river. How much a player bets within this spread is completely up to the player. The differences in betting structure in these two types of games are big enough to require drastically different strategies.
Your main strategy change should occur right at the top, in the selection of starting hands. In hold'em, the quality of your starting hand should directly depend on the amount of money you have to pay to see the flop compared to the return you expect if you get lucky and hit your hand. Why? Because your hand will miss the flop such a high percentage of the time. As it becomes more expensive to see the flop, you need to increase your chances of hitting your hand by increasing the quality of the cards you start with. Because of the differences between spread and structured limits, you can limp into a pot to see the flop for half as much money in a spread-limit game (e.g., $2) as in a structured-limit game (e.g., $4). Since the price to see the flop differs so much between structured- and spread-limit games, your strategy has to differ, too.
Suppose you are dealt a drawing hand, such as the 8d 6d in early position. In your basic structured- limit game, this hand is a marginal starting hand for several reasons. The 8d 6d plays well in only a specific type of situation -- a large, multi-way pot -- and when you are one of the first players to act, you have no guarantee that your pot will be multi-way (unless you are playing in a very loose and passive game). Since you can't know whether or not the pot will be multi-way when you are in early position, it is very important that you get to see the flop for a small bet -- in other words, as cheaply as possible. The earlier your position in the hand, the more likely it is that someone will raise behind you and the less likely it is that you will get to see the flop for a single small bet. This is where these types of hands can get very expensive. In structured-limit games, once you've called the initial small bet you are almost always forced to call any subsequent raises because of how much money is in the pot. Suppose you're in a $4-$8 game where there is $6 in blinds. You limp for $4, a player raises behind you making it $8 to go, and the blinds fold. There is already $l8 in the pot when you have to make the decision whether or not to call the extra $4 raise. There is too much money in the pot to fold your hand for $4. The call is automatic. Since you will frequently be playing for two or more small bets, hands like 8d 6d, played in early position, can be very dangerous and expensive to play -- unless, of course, you are a very good player, capable of getting off this hand cheaply after the flop when you hit it badly and squeezing out those extra bets when you hit it well.
A spread-limit game is a totally different story. Drawing hands such as the 8d 6d are clearly playable, even in early position. First, since players only have to pay half as much to see the flop, they are much more likely to limp into most pots. This means that the pot in a spread- limit game is more likely to be both un-raised and multi-way. Which means you are more likely to get to see the flop for only a small bet since spread-limit games tend to play much more loose and passive than their structured cousins. Second, even if there is a raise behind you when you limp in early position, you do not have to play for the extra bet in a spread-limit game. This is because, compared to the same scenario in a structured-limit game, there is not as much money in the pot relative to the size of the bet. Take a $2-$4-$8-$8 game where there is $.3 in blinds, for example. You limp in for $2, there is a raise behind you making it $6 t0 go, and the blinds fold. In this game, there is only $11 in the pot when you have to make the decision whether or not to call the $9 raise (as opposed to $18 in the pot in the same situation in the structured- limit game). Because there is so much less money in the pot in spread-limit, when the pot is raised behind your limp, it is easy to throw your hand away for the extra $4.
The fact that you should surrender your hand when there is a raise behind you in the spread-limit game makes all the difference in whether or not drawing hands like the 8d 6d are playable. Suited connectors play best in multi-way pots because when you hit these hands well, flopping either a straight or flush draw, you would prefer to have a lot of company. In a spread-limit game, it is not only 50 percent cheaper to limp in, speculating that the pot will be multi way, but when you find yourself in the unenviable position of having the option to call a raise in a short-handed pot, you can throw your hand away because the pot you are defending is so small compared to the size of the bet. Spread-limit games allow you a bigger choice of starting hands in unraised pots. Remember: Since you can limp in for less, the pot is offering you relatively more -- a major recommendation for playing spread-limit because if you can outplay your opponents from the flop on, you will have many more opportunities to do so.
Spread-limit games also have the advantage of giving you more control over the pot when you are in late position, This is because you have complete control over the size of any raise you might make before the flop (e.g., you can raise $2, $3, or $4 in a $2-$4-$8-$8). Consider a situation in which you have the same 8d 6 -- except now you are in late position with four limpers in front of you. This is a perfect situation for this hand -- a guaranteed large, multi-way pot in which you have position on the field. In an ideal world, you would flop the straight or flush draw:, everyone would check to you, and you would bet to buy a free card on the turn in case you miss your draw. The advantage of spread-limit hold'em is that you can actually create this ideal world for the cheapest possible price. When everyone limps to you, you can raise and take the lead on the pot for the absolute minimum (e.g., $4) and cause everyone to check to you on the flop most of the time. When you hit the flop, you can then bet and take a free card if you miss on the turn. And if you marginally hit the board, flopping something like the Kh 7s 2d which gives you a three-straight and a three-flush, you can now take a free card when everyone checks to you and see if you improve on the turn. You have controlled the situation for the minimum amount of money. As another example, consider how a small pair such as the 5h 5c plays in spread- limit. If you are in late position and there are four limpers in front of you, you should again raise $2 but for entirely different reasons from the 8d 6d. In this case, you are raising merely to make the pot a little bigger since your opponents will tend to go farther with their hands the larger the pot is. And if you are playing a small pair, where you are really only looking to flop a set, you want your opponents to chase you as often as possible since a set in hold'em almost always wins the pot. Further, raising with a small pair gives you the added advantage of often being able to see both the flop and the turn for the price of the minimum raise since your opponents will often check to the raiser on the flop. Now, when you miss the flop and everyone checks to you, you can check back and see the turn for free, giving you two chances to hit your set for the price of the small raise.
One of the biggest advantages of being able to raise the minimum in the spread-limit game is that you keep the pot small enough to release your hand easily if you only marginally hit the flop (as in the case of the Kh 7s 2d discussed above) and an opponent bets into you. The main problem with taking the lead on the pot by raising with drawing hands like the 8d 6d in a structured-limit game is that, because you are putting in extra money before the flop, your return when you hit your hand is proportionately less (even though the pot is larger) and this will cost you money in the long run. Since your goal is to get off these types of hands as cheaply as possibly when you don't hit the flop, raising into several limpers becomes a very marginal play in structured-limit games.
Spread-limit games are more advantageous to the solid, thinking player because of the major strategy differences between spread-limit and structured-limit, most of which have to do with the greater ability to manipulate the size of the pot in a spread-limit game. Even if your daily game is a structured-limit game, you should still apply some of the concepts discussed here to maximally force your opponents to always take the worst of it whenever possible, You might not be able to make your opponents play badly against you all the time (even if they only play well by accident), but if you are always thinking well and making the best decisions possible, winning will take care of itself.

© Copyright 1996 Ed Hill

Generally speaking, there are two common varieties of 7-Card Stud games: spread limit games and the fixed limit games. Spread limit games, for the most part, tend to be very low stakes — $1-3, $1-4, or $1-5 (sometimes $2-10). The fixed limit games can generally be further divided in categories based on their stakes. There are low limit games of $1/2, $3/6 and $5/10; mid-limit games of $10/20, $15/30 and $20/40, and higher limit games of $30/60 on up. There are surely strategy differences that one can apply based on the category of the game you’re in. Roy West, David Sklansky, Mason Malmuth, Ray Zee, Mike Caro, I and a few others have written extensively about these types of games.

But there are two formats of stud that have received scant attention – primarily I suspect because they’re rarely spread in public cardrooms.. They would be Pot Limit Stud and higher stakes spread limit stud – games like $5-20 or $15-100. I’m going to devote a few columns to them here.

First of all, let’s not go crazy with this notion of different strategies for different games. Poker is still poker. Stud is still stud. I wouldn’t want you to think that the world of poker strategy is so highly specialized that you need to learn a whole now methodology for playing at every level. And, in fact, not all games with the same overall structure play similarly. You might have a $10/20 games that is a rock fest and requires the application of different strategies than an identically structured $10/20 game with four loose calling stations and three maniacs in against you.

Even so, there are some general differences in pot limit and large spread limit games that are worth considering. Let me present them to you here.

Large Spread Limit

I was fortunate enough to be invited to a great home game by a friend in Worcester. Unlike so many folks these days, he prefers limit to no limit or pot limit. And he enjoys stud. So he spread a spread limit dealer’s choice game: $5-20 spread limit. The dealer anted $5. In stud the forced bet was $5.00.

His guests and friends consisted of a couple of solid players and then a host of typical home game players – but home game players with relatively deep wallets. Most people bought in for $200. At the end of the night some won and some lost in the $1000 range.

It became clear early on that there was a built in advantage to calling flop games. As the dealer, you would retain last position in the betting. We didn’t play a full round of each game, as I do in my home games. So you’d want to call a dealer advantage game when you were the dealer. Even so, four or five of the players called 7-Card Stud. Go figure.

Players in this game, for the most part, knew enough to fold helpless hands for a full bet of $20. But they wouldn’t recognize that a flush draw, played heads up from Third Street, is surely not worth a call. So if I raised to $20 with a pair of Kings, they’d habitually call with a three flush, no matter how high or how low.

It was tempting, at times, to slow play strong Premium Pairs on Third Street. At times I did. And I’d recommend the same strategy if you’re in a game with players like these. Here’s a specific example of when you shouldn’t raise the full amount with your Premium Pair.

It’s Third Street. You’re sitting on (AhTh)As. The bring in is to your left. There is $10 in the pot. Everyone folds to you. There are two players left. One with a Ks the other with a Jc. Both are relatively loose and passive – but with your tight image they tend to play more tightly against your raises than against other players at the table.

What should you do?

Conventional 7-Card Stud strategy says that it is correct, usually, to raise – to drive these players out if you can or to force them to put more money in the pot if they want to chase.

So, typically, given the option of a call or a raise on Third Street with a pair of Aces, I nearly always raise.

But in this game you have more flexibility. Use it to your advantage. Raise a small amount, hoping to get clearly dominated hands to call you. What you want is to knock out all but one player if you can. A raise by $5.00 or $10.00 is likely to do that – especially when combined with your tight and aggressive image. You can then pound away at them on Fourth Street, regardless of whether you improve.

Compare this to a similar situation. You are sitting to the left of the bring-in and you have (KhTh)Ks. Six other players are yet to act, including one with an Ace. In this situation you would go for the largest raise possible. In this instance, unlike the other instance, you have two obstacles to clear that weren’t in front of your winning path before. You have a player with an overcard showing – who might well be tempted to call a small bet in the hope of drawing an Ace on Fourth. And you have a much larger number of people who have not yet decided to act – increasing the chances that you’ll get many calls going into Fourth. This you surely don’t want, so you want to use your betting flexibility to put maximum pressure on your opponents to fold. That means betting the maximum of $20.

In general, you use your variable betting flexibility to increase pressure on your opponents with maximum bets when you are less sure where you stand, and decreased pressure with smaller bets when you are more confident that you’ll still be in the lead on Fourth Street.

Spread Limit Poker Rules

Fortunately, a variable bet can also work to your advantage because your opponents will misapply proper strategy. When they are weak they will bet less. When they are strong they will bet more. In the above instances, for example, they would be more likely to raise by $20 with the Aces and less likely to raise the full amount with Kings in early position. This allows you to broaden your spectrum of playable hands – increasing your opportunities for winning.

Let’s say, for example, that you are in late position with (JhTh)Js. An early position bettor, with an Ace, raises by $5.00. One player, with a Queen, seeing the bargain raise, calls. The action is now to you, sitting with the bring-in to your immediate left and the raiser to his immediate left.

Normally, in a structured limit game, you’d be likely to fold your lowly pair of Jacks. But in this game go ahead and call. Sure, the raiser my be slowplaying you just as you would do in his situation. Sure, the Queen may be ahead of you as well with a pair of Queens. But it’s also quite possible that the Ace has a weak hand – perhaps only Ace high, and the Queen may be sitting with relative junk as well – seduced into calling with an inferior hand because of the small raise..

But that’s not the most important reason to call. You should call even if you knew with certainty that you were against either Aces or Queens or both. That’s because of the enormous implied odds you’re getting.

Implied odds compare the current bet to the amount you may win if you hit your hand. In this case, for $5.00 you have a chance of hitting a card that could win you d to bet to stay in the hand when the amount you are likely to win well over $150-200, implied odds of 30:1 to 40:1.

Spread Limit Poker Rules Card Game

What you’re hoping for is another Jack. Your odds of hitting a Jack on the next card are 20:1 (two Jacks among. Forty-two remaining unseen cards). With implied odds of 30:1 or better (depending on how many bets of $20 you can extract from your two opponents), you have a huge overlay and should call the $5.00.

In real game situations, many other factors come into play. What is the chance that you will be raised after you call? In this case none – your call will end the betting. How loose are your opponents? Are they likely to continue to call you down to the River if you raise their bet when you hit trips? Will the third best hand fold once you show aggression? You might also want to consider other ways that you could win even if you didn’t hit your perfect card on Third. What is the likelihood that the Ace will check if he doesn’t hit a card after seeing two of his opponents call? Might you be able to see Fifth Street for free, or very cheaply, if you don’t hit your hand on Fourth? If so, you can be more inclined to call the Third Street bet, since you might have two chances to hit your hand, making your drawing odds better than 20:1 and meaning that you don’t need the large implied odds for you’re your call.

All of these factors may come into play when it is a close call. But in this case, it isn’t even close. You should call the $5.00.

Spread Limit Poker Rules For Real

As you can see, a spread limit betting structure like $5-20 allows for more creative thinking and playing in stud than a strictly fixed limit structure.

Ed Note: Find all kinds of Stud games at Poker Stars sign up today.